Laxing in Khao Lak

Khao Lak is a golden sanded stretch of coast on Thailand's western flank.  Lazing on the beach and swimming in the tepid Andaman Sea every day felt perfect!  We enjoyed a week or so here, and it was neat to catch up with our mates from home, Steve and Lynda.  They had been in Khao Lak before, so it was great to listen to their intel on places to go, and to hear their stories as well.

Seems that we've become connoisseurs of lemon shakes and banana shakes over the past few months.  There's been some amazing fruit to enjoy, and what could be better than lying in the sun with a chilled shake?!

Tourists in this area tend to be German, Swedish, Swiss or Austrian.  We got the suprise of our life when we bumped into a kiwi, and for the first time since October we got to meet a real life someone from home (apart from Nathan in Bangkok).  I've always thought kiwis were rampant throughout South East Asia, especially the countries we've visited, but turns out not so much.  

All along the Khao Lak coastline there are little but poignant reminders about how powerful the ocean can be.  The civil defence warning tower pictured below is an example.

About 20kms to the north in Baan Nam Kem this towering concrete wave is a memorial to those lost and those broken-hearted by the Boxing Day Tsunami of 2004.  This area was ravaged by massive waves, with around 80% of Thailand's 10 000 victims from this stretch of coast.  Through a slit in the 'wave' you can see a broken fishing boat.  Prior to the tsunami the local economy was centred around fishing, rubber trees and tourism.  Many fishing boats ended up well inland, which makes this memorial   Artwork particularly significant.  Opposite, plaques encrypted with the names of locals and travellers who never came home makes tears well in your eyes.

They were people like us - wanting to have another happy day, wanting to do the right thing, wanting to live the best life possible.  We spoke with a guy who'd lost five members of his family - his wife, kids, brother.  A look of deep sadness filled his face, even though his life has since become full and rich again.  A tragedy on that scale must create irreversible changes in a person, and in a community.  

Ironically, on the street in Khao Lak there's tons of laughter and smiles.  You may not detect the story that ended an era, and began a new one exactly 10 years ago.

Looking out to the calm waters behind this large Buddha in the memorial park, it's tricky to imagine the terror the ocean caused that day.  There's a peaceful vibe about the place.

The aftermath of the tsunami brought thousands of generous-hearted volunteers to the region.  Our friends Steve and Lynda selflessly spent six months in Khao Lak, and told amazing yarns about their local friends, and of the way they could be such practical help to enable the locals to rebuild their lives.  Steve is a craftsman with wood, and both are craftspeople of humanity (a much better way to say teacher!), so their skills here were really valued.  Seeing it is the 10 year anniversary, lots of the volunteers have come back to mark the occasion.  Thanks Steve and Lynda for letting us gate crash your reunion!  The photo below shows a signpost tree with the places of where volunteers were from.

Christmas was happy and relaxed.  On Christmas Eve we celebrated with the Europe-landers with a Christmas party at our hostel.  It was Pinterest standard cute!  Clever decorations, happy music, and a sweet set up.  Amazing food - a barby, local dishes, exquisite mango sticky rice, fresh pineapple, sweet mango, juicy watermelon, and cute cupcakes.  

Check out the novel decorations made from polystyrene. I'm thinking that IKEA may be responsible yet again for such funky Chrissy decorations.  Fingers crossed IKEA comes to NZ!

On the 25th we slept in, exchanged gifts, then enjoyed lunching with Steve and Lynda at the beach.  We played a touch of volleyball in the afternoon sun, and had a big swim in the warm ocean.  All about us it was a normal day, with shops open and people doing everyday things.  It was our first Christmas in a non Christmas-celebrating country.  It was so relaxing - no one was mad-rushing around in a state because the shops would shut for one single day.  No one was hyped about toting trolley loads of unneeded gifts through the mall.  No one was stressed.  It was lovely.  In fact it seems like everyday is Christmas for us - great company, fab food, and memory making!

We missed our family and friends back home, and we're really looking forward to the big catch up when we get back. 

December 26, 2014. Breakfast of champions.  Yum!  And 10 years ago this day would have started like every other.  

We spent part of the day visiting the Tsunami Museum, which was harrowing.  Graphic photos and videos showed some of the carnage.  Bodies.  Debris.  Broken houses.  Smashed fishing boats, lost jobs.  It's impossible to even begin to imagine the smell or the sadness of that day, and the hundreds of days that have passed since.

Attending the official memorial service in Khao Lak, we joined a throng of locals, tourists, people who had travelled from the four corners of the globe to honour their lost family members, a large military and navy contingent, and a swarm of camera-toting media.

The event centred around Police Boat 813, which has been enshrined in it's tsunami day position, about 2km inland.  The police were very evident at the event, and their radios buzzed with messages.  The Swedish King and Queen attended, along with various diplomats and charity representatives.  As they arrived they were greeted by the deputy prime minister.  We spotted two kiwi coppers in the mix, and chatted with one of them.  He was the kiwi police liason officer in Bangkok, and his mate was the NZ Police Commisioner (who coincidentally had been stationed in Bangkok 10 years ago).  The gentlemen were really friendly, had a laugh with us ... We're so fortunate in NZ to have an amazingly helpful police force, and trained civil servants when tragedy occurs. 

The locals crammed into tiny spaces and craned their necks to spot the black suited Thai Prime Minister as he drove in. Everyone was pleased to see him, even though his late arrival had stalled the event by 45 minutes.  The symphony orchestra had even run out of songs to play!

Following some speeches, the Thais performed a mock rescue sequence, using the skills they've developed since 2004.  Elephants were used alongside modern equipment/vehicles to locate and move 'victims' to safety.

Heading to the beach afterwards, Lynda and Steve organised a cute candles and incense picnic.  Lighting lanterns, along with many others along the beach, we celebrated life and were thankful for another day on the planet.

It was great to see Lynda and Steve, and catch up with them in a faraway place.  We hope they'll enjoy the next week or so in their Thai home-away-from-home.  

Next stop for us is Ko Lanta - touted as an island paradise, we'll soon see for ourselves!