Christchurch. Synonymous with earthquakes for many folks, Christchurch is developing a new exciting identity. I felt that initial quake at 4:35am, back in September 2010. I felt it right to my bones. Sure I was 400kms south of the Darfield epicentre, but jeepers did the ground move. Loud rumbling preceded the large waves that rolled down the hallway as we huddled in the darkness. 40 seconds is a long time when you're waiting for a 7.1 magnitude to earthquake to simmer down.
Listening to Cantabs tell their stories is a humbling experience. I've been privileged to hear numerous recounts of many shaking days. Crumbled buildings. Repetitive shovelling. Stress, nightmares, anxiety. Funerals. Financial burdens. Cordons. Red zones. Loss.
Re:start!
It's not as simple as that. It's not as minuscule as one tiny word.
There's such a buzz in the air in Christchurch, or Chch as the vibrant city is affectionately known. And the buzz is not only the cranes and noise that the hoards of hard hats are creating (it seems there's almost as many high-viz outfits in Chch as there are normal clothes!). The buzz is of a generation of locals redefining themselves, folks making the most of spaces and creating opportunities to gather.
As a wee kid, I vividly remember cruising through the streets of Christchurch in the back seat of our family's 1970's Holden Kingswood (yep... class!). Carefully tended flowers whizzed by my window, elegant trees majestically lining city streets. Also seared in my memory is the ice cream cart, close to the Avon River, which was absolutely heaven on wheels to the two sweet-toothes in our whanau.
What I'm trying to say is that Chch has been known for her delicious beauty for many years. As the lethal Feb 2011 quake hit, Chch was preparing for the Ellerslie Flower Show. Over many a dark day that followed, the faded Flower Show flags became an iconic reminder of the essence of Chch as they fluttered behind the cordoned zone.
Beauty is flourishing yet again, rising through the rubble.
The following quotes are found in a shop window in the Re:START container mall.
If you're headed Christchurch way, be sure to stop at this shopping mall made from shipping containers. Who thought of building that? It's genius.
How much creative thought and innovation comes because of hard times? How often do we keep a spirit of gratitude when we are challenged, knowing that positive growth will likely come. Something for me to keep in mind!
The tram tracks have been restored, and the familiar whir of yesteryear regularly takes her passengers though the Re:Start mall, through pop up eateries, and to Cathedral Square.
The Square houses the Chalice (pictured above), constructed to mark the new millennium.
And speaking of large ethereal concepts, who should we find in his favourite place, but the Christchurch Wizard. Same weathered face, same long beard, some spiel. The Wizard of New Zealand is his official title, but he was born Ian Brackenbury Channell, in England, 1932.
Following a stint of university lecturing, travelling, making stuff up, and coming to Chch ... The Wizard is now described as an educator, comedian, magician and politician, and something of a national treasure in NZ (thanks Wikipedia).
Dunno if you've ever had the privilege of sitting under the warm Cantab sun, and attempting to keep up with the rhetoric of this local legend. I'd always assumed he was a fantasy-induced lunatic, until I heard him speak. He's kinda plausible. He's humorous. He's intelligent, in that certain kind of way that can seamlessly string diversely different ideas together. Not saying I believe what he says, but he's worth a listen to, just to get your head thinking at a different level.
The Wizard segways between Freud's theories on human development, cartographers in the old days controlling how country's perceived their status (with the Wizard creating his own right-side-up map), Maslow's hierachy of needs, and cosmic theories. Another comvincing topic is how women cause wars through their shopping habits. He's a hoot!
Another young dude thinks so too, and so the young apprentice seated below hangs on every word.
The backdrop to the Wizard is something a little more majestic, glorious and elegant.
These days the Christchurch Cathedral looks very much her age, completed in 1904, that makes her a centenarian. Turns out that in 1864 when the cornerstone of this grand old lady was laid, Christchurch was still a small town. The male population was only 450. That's a huge undertaking and commitment for a small town. Over the years the Cathedral has always been pristinely maintained. It felt odd to stand at the cordon and see knee-high sun-parched grass growing through the cracks in the tiles. Still an absolutely peaceful and beautiful spot.
The most poignant of all Christchurch spaces has gotta be the memorial of 185 Empty Chairs. White-painted chairs of all descriptions are neatly lined up in a matrix of rememberance. During the history-changing quake of Feb 2011, 185 darlings didn't make it home. There is a bassinet, various kinds of office chairs, an armchair, a rockering chair, a beanbag ... Each representing one person who dies in the quake. A sign invites you to take a seat. No pretentiousness, none of that pre-2010 uppity Christchurch "which school did you go to?" hoity-toity. Just plain old 'take a seat.' Remember life is fragile.
No doubt many more chairs at the homes of those victims remain empty - someone's chair at the family table, a favourite camping chair, an armchair in the sun. It was a reminder that life is precious. It was a reminder to hold loved ones close.
A friend recently shared a YouTube clip showing drone footage of Christchurch pre and post quakes. It's a mind-blowing watch - whether you're a long time lover of Chch, or a recent acquaintance.
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